Most people looking for a puppy already know to avoid the obvious cases. The difficulty is that the better operations have learned the vocabulary. They say “health tested” and “raised in our home” and “champion bloodlines” and have a nicer website than we do.

So here's how to tell — not by vibe, but by things you can verify.

The clear warning signs

They won't let you see where the dogs live

Meeting in a car park is the classic. There are occasional legitimate biosecurity reasons for limiting visitors, but a breeder should offer video, or a scheduled visit, or something. Refusal with no alternative is the single strongest signal.

Puppies available immediately, always

A small program produces a few litters a year. Waiting lists are normal. Permanent availability means volume, and volume means the individual attention isn't happening.

No application, no questions

If a breeder will take your money without asking anything about your home, they're selling a product. A responsible breeder is trying to place a dog, which involves finding out whether you're the right place.

Multiple breeds, or "designer" crosses

Doing right by one breed is a lot of work. Five breeds at once means volume.

Puppies leaving before eight weeks

Weeks six to eight are when puppies learn bite inhibition and canine social skills from their littermates. Early separation is associated with lasting behavioural problems. It's also illegal in several states.

Pressure

“Two other families are interested.” “Deposit today to hold him.” Urgency is a sales technique. A good breeder would rather you took a week to think than took a dog you weren't sure about.

The sophisticated ones

Harder, because the surface looks right. Three questions cut through almost all of it.

1. "What are both parents' OFA numbers?"

Not “are they health tested” — which invites a yes — but the actual numbers. They're public at ofa.org and take a minute to verify. A breeder doing this properly answers in seconds. Watch for deflection: “our vet checked them,” “we've never had a problem,” “the grandparents were certified.” None of those is an OFA number.

2. "What's in the health guarantee, and can I read it now?"

Ask for the document before paying anything. Look at what's actually covered, for how long, and what you'd have to do to claim. Some guarantees require returning the dog to be honoured — which, after two years with a family, is not a real remedy and is designed not to be used.

3. "What happens if I can't keep this dog in five years?"

The answer tells you how they think. A responsible breeder wants that dog back, permanently, no matter how long it's been. Someone who has never considered the question was thinking about the sale, not the dog.

Things that are not red flags

Some fair-minded buyers reject good breeders for the wrong reasons:

Charging a fair price. Health testing is expensive. Cheap is the warning sign, not costly.
Asking you a lot of questions. That's the process working.
Saying no to you. A breeder who declines a placement is one who declines placements — which is what you want from whoever bred your dog.
Having a waiting list. Good.
A plain website. Plenty of excellent breeders are better with dogs than with web design.

If you think you've found a bad operation

Don't buy the puppy. It's an agonising position — there's a dog in front of you that needs help — but buying funds the next litter. Report to your state's Department of Agriculture, and to the HSUS puppy mill tip line if the scale suggests one.

The short version

Ask for OFA numbers and verify them yourself. Ask to read the health guarantee before paying. Ask what happens in five years. Three questions, ten minutes, and almost every bad option removes itself.

Ours are on the table: pricing, our dogs, and the questions we get asked most.

How to Spot a Backyard Breeder